Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Use a Surplus Dish Dish as an IEEE 802.11 Wireless Networking Antenna

Use a Surplus Dish Dish as an IEEE 802.11 Wireless Networking Antenna

It is easy to make a satelite dish into a highly directional antenna for the very popular IEEE 802.11 wireless networking. The resulting antenna has about 22 db of gain, and is fed with 50 ohm coaxial cable. Usually LMR400 or 9913 low loss cable is used if the source is more than a few feet from the antenna. The range using two of these antennas with a line of sight path is around 10 miles at full bandwidth. I must stress the line of sight part though. Leaves really attenuate the signal.









Things You Will Need:
A Primestar dish. (You may use any old dish, but if it is bigger than the Primestar the gain will be higher, and it may not be within the Federal Communications Commission rules for use within Nigeria. In fact I have come to find out that there seem to be several different dishes that Primestar used, and I am only sure that the one I used, pictured above, used with the ordinary Wavelan or Airport transceiver card is within the effective radiated power limits given by the FCC.)
A juice can (about 4 inches in diameter and at least 8 inches long).
A chassis mount N connector.
You will also need a "pigtail" connector which has the proprietary Lucent connector (for the PCMCIA card) on one end and an N connector on the other. The pigtail can be obtained from a number of online stores for $35 to $40.
Construction Steps:
After deciding on a place to mount your antenna (which hopefully has a line of sight path to the access point or other IEEE 802.11 site), remove the apparatus at the feed position of the dish, saving the mounting hardware.
Using a can opener, cut one end of the juice can out, drink the juice and wash it out
Solder a quarter wavelength (1.15 inches) of wire onto the center conductor of the chassis mount N connector.
Using a punch or whatever other tools you deem necessary, mount the N connector so that it is about 1.2 inches from the closed end of the juice can as shown below. It is also a good idea to put a drip hole at the lowest point of the can to insure that water doesn't build up inside. After having this up a for a few months, I think it would be nice to put a plastic lid on the open end of the can so that the inside doesn't rust. During the time mine has been up, it has rusted and I have lost a couple of db on the signal strength. These two things may be correlated.
If you are certain of the polarization you will need, mount the juice can so that that polarization is achieved. (You want the antenna you are communicating with to be lined up with yours.) If you don't know the polarization you can set everything up and before mounting the juice can, experiment to get the maximum signal strength by rotating the juice can around its axis. Most commercial antennas I've seen are using vertical polarization, so that the picture below shows you the proper orientation. You want to mount the juice can so that the opening is just at the focus of the dish. In my installation I didn't quite achieve this, but I only lost a db or two by taking the easy route. I still have about 25 db signal to noise ratio, so this wasn't important to me. The easy route is to mount the can as far back as you can along the mount, by punching two holes through the can and bolting it in. The perfectionist's method would be to find the best feed place (which I found to be just a little farther back) and use some PVC tubing or something to extend the mount so the feed is in the perfect position. In some installations, every decibel will count and this should be considered.



The inside of the feed can.




Some Considerations:

This antenna is very directional. You must have it aligned very carefully, or you will lose a lot of signal. It also needs to be mounted securely, so the wind won't be able to rotate it even a few degrees.

This antenna is an offset fed dish, which means that the feed horn (our juice can) is not positioned as much in the way of an incoming signal, so it doesn't shadow the dish. This makes the aiming a bit tricky, because it actually looks like it is aimed down when it is aimed for the horizon. See the photo below of it aimed actually a few degrees above the horizon. You can use the scale on the dish mount to determine the elevation it is aimed at. The dish isn't as directional in the up/down directions as it is side to side. This is fortunate, because without turning the mounting upside down we can only get it set so it is a few degrees above the horizon. I sacrificed a db of gain here by not turning it over, mostly because I'm mounting it on a vent pipe, and didn't want to put that kind of wind load on it. As mentioned above I don't really need the extra signal either.




The mount of the dish. This photo also shows the angle it must be tipped to be aimed at the horizon.





I believe this feed system could be improved by linking two cans together (or using a section of pipe) to give the effect of lengthening the length of the circular wave guide feed. This would further attenuate undesired modes (other than the TE11 mode). The optimum length would be between 14 and 21 inches. The opening would still need to be at the focus of the dish.
Use the Feed Can By Itself

You can use the feed can by itself as a cheap antenna. It works as well as the commercially available "range extender" antenna, but only in one direction, and it is so easy to construct!
Some More Photos




A photo of the mounting of the feed can.








A photo of the coaxial connection to the feed can.
IEEE 802.11a
This antenna modification is for the IEEE 802.11b networking protocol that operates at 2.4 GHz. It can be scaled easily to the 5 GHz frequency used by IEEE 802.11a by simply scaling the dimensions on the feed can and the excitation antenna to 2.4/5 = 48% of the dimensions shown above.

How To Build A Tin Can Waveguide WiFi Antenna

How To Build A Tin Can Waveguide WiFi Antenna
for 802.11(b or g) Wireless Networks
or other 2.4GHz Applications


Got no dough for a commercial WiFi antenna? Looking for an inexpensive way to increase the range of your wireless network? A tin can waveguide antenna, or Cantenna, may be just the ticket. This design can be built for under $5 U.S. and reuses a food, juice, or other tin can.
I am not an electrical engineer, nor do I have access to any fancy test equipment. I've built some antennas that worked for me and thought I would share what I learned. I have no idea if this is safe for your radio or wireless network equipment. The risk to you and your equipment is yours.





Building your Cantenna is easy, just follow these steps.

Collect the parts
Drill or punch holes in your can to mount the probe
Assemble the probe and mount in can


Collect the parts:
You'll need:

A N-Female chassis mount connector.
Four small nuts and bolts
A bit of thick wire
A can
These vendors can supply the parts (the wire and can you provide yourself).

The Connector
A N type Female Chassis-mount connector. One side is N-female for connecting the cable from your wireless equipment, and the other side has a small brass stub for soldering on wire. These can be found at electronics stores internet suppliers (see the list below under "Connect your antenna..." If you shop around, you should be able to find these for $3-$5.

Nuts & Bolts
You'll need them just long enough to go through the connector and the can. I've used #6x1/4" stainless. If your N-connector is a screw on type, then you won't need the nuts and bolts.

Wire
You'll need about 1.25" of 12 guage copper wire. This wire will stick into the brass stub in the N-connector.




Drill or punch holes in your can to mount the probe
The N-connector assembly will mount in the side of your can. You need to put holes in the right place to mount the connector. The placement of the hole and connect is very important. It's location is derived from formulas that use the frequency that the antenna will operate at and the can diameter. To make life easy on you, here's a calculator to figure it out for you.



Enter the diameter of your can above and click on the calculate button. 802.11b and 802.11g WiFi networking equipment operates at a range of frequencies from 2.412 GHz to 2.462 GHz. Ideally, with your can size, the TE11 cut-off frequency should be lower than 2.412 and the TM01 cut-off should be higher than 2.462. It would be good, also, if your can is longer than the 3/4 Guide Wavelength. If your can is a little off in length or diameter, don't despair, experimentation is fun!

You want to mark the location on the can where you will put the hole for the connector. The 1/4 Guide Wavelength number tells you how far up from the bottom metal end of the can to put the center of the hole. Open only one end of your can, eat the contents, and give it a good washing. You'll probably want to remove the label too. Use a ruler to measure up from the closed end 1/4 Guide Wavelength and mark the can with a dot.

If you've got a drill, select a bit that matches the size of the center of your connector. You may want to start with a small bit and work the hole larger and larger. You could even start with a hammer and nail, then use drill bits. If you don't have a drill, start with a nail hole and use a file to get the hole to the required size. If you're using a bolt on connector, make four more holes for the bolts - you can use the connector as a drilling guide.


Click on image to enlarge
Assemble the probe and mount in can
Now you'll need that bit of wire. You'll need a soldering iron or a friend with one as well. Cut the wire so that when it is stuck in the connector as shown, the total length of both the brass tube and wire sticking out past the connector is 1.21". Get as close to this length as you can.

When you've got your wire correctly sized, solder it into the connector keeping it as straight and upright as you can. When it's cooled, bolt or screw the assembly into your can. Put the heads of the bolts inside the can and the nuts on the outside to minimize the obstructions in your antenna. Your Done!




Connect your antenna to your wireless card or access point
To use your cantenna, you'll need a special cable commonly called a "Pig Tail". The pig tail connects your wireless card or access point to you antenna. One end of the cable will have a "N" Male connector (just right for connecting your your cantenna), while the other end will have a connector appropriate to your card or access point. For a good picture of a pig tail, take a look at:
http://www.seattlewireless.net/index.cgi?PigTail

You'll want to have a wireless NIC or access point with an external antenna connector. Otherwise, you may have to hack into the one you have to hook up the cable. I wouldn't recommend this unless you're good with a soldering iron and electronics. For this reason, I like the Agere Orinoco cards which have a nice antenna connector. Pig Tails can be hand made if you have the right tools, but it's probably easier to get a pre-made one. Try:

Fleeman Anderson & Bird
Fleeman Anderson & Bird has a "cantenna kit" for sale that includes the connector and pigtail. Choose one of the "cables" links from the menu and look towards the bottom of the list.
Hyperlinktech
Antenna Systems
Hook up your cable, point the antenna at a friend's, and see how far you can stretch you network. Be sure to let me know (greg@turnpoint.net) how it works.

This antenna has linear polarization. That means that how you rotate the antenna will affect the strength of your signal. Usually, you will want to put the connection straight down, but experiment with rotating the can while watching the signal strength on your PC to get the best performance.









http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html

IPOD HACK: Install Linux On I-pod

What can Linux on iPod do?
Linux on iPod is not yet complete, and only offers some basic functions.
Some current podzilla features:
• A music browser allowing you to view your iPod's music in a similar way to Apple's iPod firmware
• Basic MP3 playback (with volume control)
• Basic Recording
• Some simple games
o Bluecube (Tetris (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetris))
o Invaders (Space Invaders (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_invaders))
o iPobble (Puzzle Bobble (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puzzle_Bobble) or Bust a Move)
o Lights (Lights Out (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lights_Out_%28game%29))
o Nimesweeper (Minesweeper (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minesweeper_%28computer_game%29))
o Othello
o Pong (Pong (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pong))
o Steroids (Asteroids (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asteroids))
o Tic-Tac-Toe
o Tunnel
o Tuxchess (Chess)
• A few GFX demos
o Cube
o Matrix
o Mandelpod
• A file browser able to:
o Read text files
o View images (JPEG, GIF, BMP, PNM and XPM formats are supported)
o Execute external applications
o Play uncompressed videos
• A Linux shell interface


Playing Songs
You can play songs via either the Music menu, which plays your iPod's song in an ordered way (similar to that of the iPod's original firmware) or by selecting the song using the file browser
When the song is playing, you can pause by pressing the play/pause button, and resume the song by pressing play/pause again. The volume can be changed with the scrollwheel. You can go the next song by pressing next, and go back by pressing previous if the song was played through the Music Browser. To go back to podzilla, press Menu. When Menu is pressed, the song will stop playing and you will be shown the podzilla interface again. You can choose Shuffle and Repeat as well through the Settings menu.

Games
In the Extras menu, select Games, and you will be presented with a choice of games. Pressing Menu while in a game will bring you out of the game.
• Game Instructions
o Bluecube(Tetris): Previous is used to move the block left, Next is used to move the block right. Play/Pause is used to speed up the block going down. The scrollwheel can be scrolled left or right to turn the piece. Pressing the middle select button causes the piece to go down straight away.
o Pong: The scrollwheel is used to control the movement of the paddle.
o Othello: The scrollwheel is used to control which block is selected, and the center button is used to select that block.
o Nimesweeper(Minesweeper): The scrollwheel is used to select the mine you want to mark. Press play to mark a mine. Press play once again to cancel.
o Steroids(Asteroids): Scroll wheel rotates ship, middle select button fires, Next toggles thrusters on/off. Play/Pause can be used to pause the game.
Browsing Files
The File Browser is located on the main menu. When in the File Browser, you will be able to access the different directories on the iPod's harddrive. You can open text files by selecting .txt files. To select a file, scroll to that file, and press the center button. To get back to the File Browser from the text file viewer, press Menu. You can also open picture files (JPEG, GIF, BMP, PNM and XPM) on the iPod by selecting the file, and pressing the select button. A picture may take a while to open depending on the size. Pressing Menu will take you back to the File Browser. Pressing Menu in the File Browser will take you back to the Main Menu. If you want to go into another directory, scroll to the directory and press the center button. If you want to go back to the parent directory, scroll to the top of the file browser till you see "..". Selecting this will take you back to the parent directory.
When you hold down the select button on a file object, you will get a menu containing at least the "Delete" command. If you confirm it will delete the object. For text files another menu option will show up: Edit in viP. When you select this, the viP text editor will be opened on the selected file.
Shell: Command Line Interface
There is an external site containing 19 screenshots (http://www.artm-friends.at/rm/ipodlinuxguidedtour/ipodlinuxguidedtour.html) about sash and viP usage. The text and examples are similar to those presented here.
Starting the sash Shell
An unmodified iPod Linux (as installed by the GUI-installers for Mac OS X or Windows) boots straight into the podzilla GUI application. You can enter the sash shell in the following way: From podzilla, start the File Browser. Navigate to the "/bin" directory. Scroll down to the program "sh" (actually this is a link to the sash executable). Start it by pressing the center button.
Entering Commands
The prompt shows your current dir. When sash was entered as above, the initial dir is /sbin. As an example enter the command "cd .." to change to the root dir "/" as follows:
Choose a character by using the scroll wheel. All available characters show up: lower case letters, upper case letters, numbers and some other ascii chars. When the correct char is displayed at the insertion point (cursor position), in our example the lower case "c", press the Next button. The char will be accepted and the cursor will be advanced. As the default for the next char a second "c" is displayed. (The default is always the same char as the last one.) But we want a "d", so by carefully moving the scroll wheel a very small amount change the "c" into a "d". Commit this "d" by pressing again the Next button. A second "d" appears. Change it by scrolling into a space. You find the space just before the "a". To complete the example, we need two dots. Enter a dot. This time the second dot appearing as default is okay, we just want it. So do not change it but press enter now. Enter is the "Play/Pause" button. The command is executed and the working dir is now "/".
In order to feel at home in Linux we can go on making a home directory (iPod Linux arrives without one). Enter the command "mkdir home" now, than enter "cd home". Here we can create a new file named "test" by entering the command "touch test".
Using the viP Text Editor
When you want to edit the contents of a file "test", enter the command "viP test". viP is the text editor of iPod Linux. (If "test" exists already, it will be opened for editing, otherwise a file of that name will be created.)
As its grandfather vi, viP makes heavy use of modes. When started up viP is in "insert" mode. In "insert" mode you can enter text (using the scroll wheel and the Next button, just like in sash). This text will be inserted at the cursor position, i.e. already existing will not be overwritten but shifted behind.
When ready with text input you have to change to the command mode. Press the Menu button once to change to the command mode. The cursor jumps to the last line of the screen and awaits for a typed command. Instead of typing a command it is usually easier to press Menu again. Now you have a scrollable menu of available commands in that last line of the screen. Available commands include :insert, :move, :save, :quit. You execute a command by pressing the enter button (Play/Pause).
• insert brings you into the "insert" mode, described above
• save saves the current state of the file to disk
• quit leaves the editor (and returns to sash)
• move switches to the "move" mode
In "move" mode the cursor is back in the text area. You can now move around in the open file. Turning the scroll wheel either moves horizontally inside a line from char to char, or vertically from line to line. You switch between these two submodes by pressing the center button.
Other examples
Other shell command examples (besides the already mentioned cd, ls, mkdir, viP, touch) include:
• ps - list of running processes
• uptime - elapsed time since booting into Linux
• exit - leave the shell
and others, found in the /bin directory.
Leaving the Shell
While in the shell you can return to the podzilla GUI by entering the command "exit" or by simply pressing the Menu button.




Installation
Installing Linux onto your iPod is a non-destructive process and will leave all your existing configuration and music intact. The included bootloader will also allow you to choose either the Apple or the Linux software when you reboot (reset) your iPod.
Before installing iPodLinux, make sure your iPod is supported! If you try to install Linux on any of the unsupported iPods, there's a much higher chance of error or unworkability; tread carefully, and don't come crying to us when you think your iPod is broken. (It's not.)

Computer Connection
In order to install Linux on your iPod you first need to make sure your system is configured to connect to your iPod. If you are using Mac OS X, it is most likely already configured. If you are using Windows, make sure iTunes lets your iPod show up as a disk drive in My Computer.

Disk Mode
Connect the iPod to your computer and make sure it shows Do not disconnect on the iPod's screen. This is called Disk mode. The iPod should enter Disk mode automatically once connected. If it does not, for 1-3G iPods you can force it to enter disk mode by rebooting your iPod (hold down menu and play/pause for a few seconds (until the screen blanks out), and then quickly hold down rewind and fast forward). For later generation iPods, you can enter disk mode by holding down menu and select for about 5 seconds and then switch quickly to select and play/pause once the screen display changes.

Overview

Components
iPodLinux consists of several components, some of which are currently being migrated from their original versions to second generation versions. Here is a overview of the components involved:
• The Boot Loader. There is the original version which silently boots either the Apple firmware or Linux, choosing the other by pressing the Rewind key at startup. There is also a new version 2 which offers a menu with many more options, including support for Rockbox loading.
• The Kernel. There is mainly one version that hasn't been changed in a while, which is stored in CVS and which you can download as a prebuilt file. There is, however, a side project on an improved kernel, which you may alternatively install once you have had success with the default kernel.
• The Userland is a set of files and folders providing the basic functionality to using Linux on the iPod. It contains a shell, the /etc/rc startup file, among others. The default shell may be sash, a very dumb shell. You might want to install the Minix shell as a replacement.
• Podzilla is the main user application for iPodLinux, being similar to what you use on a Apple-driven iPod: You get a graphical menu from which you can launch tools, change settings, browse music etc. There exists the original monolithic podzilla, which only supports older iPod models, and the new modular podzilla 2, which supports all current iPod models and allows adding new modules easily.
Partitioning
Linux needs a file system that supports Unix-style permissions.
WinPods use the FAT32 format, which is not adequate for Linux. Therefore, you need to add another partition, e.g. ext2, to install Linux on. This may require that you reformat your iPod, losing all your stored data on it. Make sure you have a backup of your iPod files before installing iPodLinux on it. The easiest way to add a ext2 partition to your WinPod is to use Installer 2, which takes care of the partitioning for you.
MacPods, on the other hand, use the HFS+ format, which Linux can be run from. Hence, you can simply store the Linux files on a MacPod from a Mac OS computer by copying them using the Finder or the cp in a command shell. You may have to use chmod +x on select files (/etc/rc and /sbin/* after the copying to make them executable.
Recommended Installation Procedures
There are several methods for installing iPodLinux. Here is a brief list of your options:
• Using the new Installer 2 is probably the easiest solution to get a quick start. It is currently only available for Windows and Linux, not Mac OS X, though. Also note that it's still in development, and may not fully work in all corners yet. It is a good idea to use a "fresh" iPod, meaning that if you have already done any kind of modification to your iPod and the installer isn't working for you, you should go here: http://www.apple.com/ipod/download/ and get the restore/upgrade software and use it to return your iPod to a workable state.
• Mac OS X users should try the new Mac Installer. That one is still under development as well, though.
• If you had success with the basic installation, you can switch to using the latest Loader 2 with the Installer. You can also do it by hand with the manual installation instructions.
• Note: Before installation, make sure that the path to your installer contains ONLY English letters. Otherwise, for instance, if you have Russian letters, installation will end with an error
Starting iPodLinux (and Apple's)
Eject (or unmount) your iPod from your PC, then reboot the iPod using the Key Combinations if it doesn't reboot by itself after the installation already.
Important: When you had connected your iPod to your PC, do not reboot the iPod while it says do not disconnect, because that might have the bad effect that the modifications you made to the iPod get partially lost. Make sure you eject the iPod so that it says ready to disconnect before you reboot it!
When the iPod restarts, it'll show first the usual picture of an apple, then it should either:
• Show a picture of the original happy Mac, and after another few seconds should be back in the normal Apple software.
• Show a picture of a penguin, after which it will boot into Linux.
• Show a menu with choices such as Apple OS and iPodLinux.
In the first two cases, you have the original loader installed - hold down the << (rewind) key after a reboot and before either the Mac or the penguin picture appears to have the alternative software loaded. In the latter case, you have Loader 2 installed. Use the <<>> keys to select an item from the menu and press the center button to select it.
If you chose to boot into Linux, podzilla should start. It may show a few messages which you have to dismiss with the center button, and then you have a menu interface similar to that of the original Apple software.
Now you are ready to explore iPodLinux. See the Documentation page for further pointers.
Note that if you have a WinPod, you'll not be able to see the newly installed Linux files from your Windows PC. See Accessing ext2 to learn how to access those linux files and folders.
If you want to copy new items to the iPod, you'll have to get it into disk mode again, just like before. iPodLinux does not offer its own disk mode - you have to reboot it into Apple's software for that.

What if something goes wrong?
Be sure to have a backup of your music before installing iPodLinux (while Installer 2 offers to make a backup for you, that does not include your files on the iPod but only Apple's iPod firmware)! If anything goes wrong, you can always use Apple's handy Firmware Restore Utility (http://www.apple.com/ipod/download/) to reinstall Apple's iPod operating system (called firmware). This will remove iPodLinux and make your iPod work the same way it did when you bought it. If you follow the directions exactly, the worst case scenario is to lose your music and settings.
If you attempt to install iPodLinux on an unsupported iPod it is possible that the Apple restore ut

Phone Codes Tips and Tricks

Nokia Codes Tips and Tricks

To check the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity) Type-
*#06#
Information you get from the IMEI-
XXXXXX XX XXXXXX X
TAC FAC SNR SP

TAC = Type approval code
FAC = Final assembly code
SNR = Serial number
SP = Spare
To check the phones Software revision type-
*#0000#
Information you get from the Software revision-
V 05.31
18-02-99
NSE-3
1ST Line = Software revision
2ND Line = The date of the software release
3RD Line = Phone type
To enter the service menu type-
*#92702689# (*#WAR0ANTY#)
Serial number (IMEI)
Production date (MM/YY)
Purchase date (MM/YY) You can only enter the date once.
Date of last repair (0000=No repair)
Transfer user data to another Nokia phone via Infra-Red
Clock Stopping
To check weather your SIM Card supports clock stopping type-
*#746025625# (*#SIM0CLOCK#)

Revealing the Headphone and Car-Kit menus
Please note that if you do these next tricks, the new menus can't be erased without retoring the factory default settings. To do these tricks you need to short-circuit the pins on the bottom of the phone next to where you plug in you charger.

1. To activate the "Headset" menu, you need to short-circuit pins "3" and "4". After a short time the word "Headset" will be shown in the display. Menu 3-6 is now enabled.
2. To activate the "Car" menu, you need to short-circuit pins "4" and "5". After a short time the word "Car" will be shown in the display. Menu 3-7 is now enabled.

THE REBOOT TRICK
This should work on all software versions of the 6110.
1. Go to the Calendar (Menu-8)
2. Make a note or reminder.
3. Enter some text into the edit box.
4. Hold "Clear" until the whole text is cleared, then press "Back".
5. Press "0". The main screen will now be showing but a space appears on the screen. (you can't see it)
6. Enter 4 digits (e.g. 1234).
7. Use the down arrow to move the cursor to the left side of the numbers and the space (Down arrow twice).
8. Now enter 6 digits and press the call button.

Wait for a few seconds, the screen should start to flash and reboots. It should alsowork on other menus like the "Profiles" menu.

EFR CALL QUALITY
To activate EFR (Enhanced Full Rate) Enter the code-
*3370#
This improves call quality but decreases batterylife by about 5%
To deactivate it, Enter the code-
#3370#

THE JAMES BOND TRICK
If you short-circuit theleft middle and right pins on the bottom of the phone with all connections touching each other, the Nokia software hangs! The profile "Headset" will be activated. Before you do this just activate the "Automatic Answer" in the headset profile and set the ringing volume to "Mute". Now you can use your phone for checking out what people are talking about in a room. Just place it under a table in a room and call it. The phone receives the call without ringing and you can listen to what people are saying.

NETWORK MONITOR
There is a hidden menu inside your Nokia phone. If you want to activate it, you'll have to re-program some chips inside of your phone.
Check your software version. You can only continue if you have v4.33, v4.73 or v5.24.
Take apart the phone.
De-solder the EEPROM (ATMEL AT 24C64).
Read out the data with an EEPROM programmer and save it to a file (Backup).
If you have v.33 or v4.73, change the address "03B8" from "00" to "FF".
If you have v5.24 then change the address "0378" from "00" to "FF".
Write the new data to the EEPROM and solder it back to the phone,
Power on your phone and you should have "Netmonitor" enabled.
The Network Monitor gives you the following information.

Carrier number
MS RX Level in DBM
Received signal quality
MS TX power level
C1 (Path loss criterion, used for cell selection and reselection). The range is -99 to 99.
RTL (Radio link timeout).
Timeslot
Indication of the transmitter status
Information on the Network parameters.
TMSI (Temporary Mobile Subscriber Identity).
Cell identification (Cell ID, Number of cells being used).
MCC (Mobile country code)
MCN (Mobile network code)
LAC (Location area code)
Ciphering (On/Off)
Hopping (On/Off)
DTX (On/Off)
Discard cell barred information

CHECK SIM-LOCK
Note - If you bought your Nokia on UK Vodafone or UK Cellnet you do not need to check this because they both transmit on GSM900, and they don't lock the phones. However if you bought your phone on UK Orange or UK One2one your phone may be blocked. The reason is that they both transmitt on GSM1800. To make a call on GSM1800 you need what is known as a "Dual band" phone. A dual band phone is able to transmit on both GSM900 and GSM1800, so they lock the phones so you can't use it with any other network simcard. If you find that your phone is locked you can try different software to unlock it. (we havn't found one that works yet), or you can ask your service provider who will gladly exchange the 10 digit code for about £35.
This is how to check the status of the 4 different locks. Aslo don't try entering the wrong number, because after 3 times it will block the phone for good.

There are 4 different locks on your Nokia phone.
COUNTRY-LOCK
NETWORK-LOCK
PROVIDER-LOCK
SIMCARD-LOCK
The code to read out the sim-lock status of your phone is

#PW+(MASTERCODE)+(Y)#
# = DOUBLE-CROSS
W = PRESS "*" THREE TIMES
P = PRESS "*" FOUR TIMES
+ = PRESS "*" TWO TIMES
MASTERCODE = 1234567890
Y = NUMBER 1 TO 4
The master code is a secret code. The code has 10 digits, To read out the sim-lock status you can enter every combination you want!
"Y" Shows the status of the network-lock. Here you can enter a number from "1" to "4". The "4" is for the sim-card lock.

SIM-LOCK CHECKS
#PW+1234567890+1# = GIVES PROVIDER-LOCK STATUS
#PW+1234567890+2# = GIVES NETWORK-LOCK STATUS
#PW+1234567890+3# = GIVES COUNTRY-LOCK STATUS
#PW+1234567890+4# = GIVES SIM-CARD-LOCK STATUS.

MAKE FREE MONEY

WELCOME

Welcome to my world where everybody is somebody and none is nobody. Together we shall hack all hackables